The spectacular natatorium was designed by the German-born Helena architect
John C. Paulsen, and his partner Noah J. McConnell.
View looking northeast, ca. 1908
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

The natatorium was the most important example of Moorish architecture in the Northwest. It housed the largest indoor "plunge" in the world. A rectangular nave covered the 300' x 100' pool. The hot-spring water for the complex was delivered via redwood pipes from the source 1.5 miles to the west. Over one million gallons per day of hot and cold mountain spring water flowed through the system. The pool had a maximum depth of 12'.


An unusual early view, showing the eastern side of the natatorium. Beneath the lower circular windows was a long row of dressing rooms. On the hillside in the foreground, note the upper (1865) and lower (1873) "Yaw Yaw" ditches, carrying water from Ten Mile Creek to Helena.

DETAILED VIEW
PRIVATE COLLECTION



Natatorium and Mount Helena, looking southeast.

MYSTERIOUS DEATH AND BURIAL OF THE ARCHITECT

The architect of the natatorium, John C. Paulsen, had a history of political corruption relating to the construction of public projects. In 1896, seven years after completion of the Broadwater project, he became embroiled -- as State Architect -- in a major kickback scandal involving construction of the Montana Capitol Building.

On March 31 1897, just hours before he was to testify before a Grand Jury, Paulsen's wife found him dead in the bathroom of his Kenwood home. The coroner's official finding was that Paulsen died of a stroke ("cerebral apoplexy"), but other persistent reports claimed he died from a gunshot to the head, perhaps self-inflicted -- perhaps not.



RECEIVING VAULT - FORESTVALE CEMETERY
PHOTO BY RIC SEABROOK, COURTESY OF CHARLEEN SPALDING

Because the ground was frozen and burial impossible, his body was placed in the Receiving Vault at Helena's Forestvale Cemetery to await the thaw; but the suspicious circumstances surrounding his death - and claims that he had been sighted alive and well - necessitated an identification of his body shortly after his death, mainly for insurance purposes.

Records of the Herrmann & Co. Funeral Home in Helena state that on May 6 1897, they dispatched a driver and wagon to Forestvale to carry Paulsen's zinc-lined coffin to the railroad depot for transport to an unnamed location. There, John C. Paulsen slipped from history; there is no record known of the final dispostion of his remains.

Reports that Paulsen committed suicide continued into the 20th Century; the newspaper clipping below is from the March 30, 1902 Atlanta Constitution...

Will we ever know the real story? It's doubtful. When corrupt politicians and large sums of money are involved, the truth is naturally scarce -- and people are quite expendable.

• MANY THANKS TO HELENA HISTORIAN CHARLEEN SPALDING FOR HER HELP WITH THIS SECTION •

 




Natatorium from the NW. Patrons waiting for the trolley.

 


Natatorium from the SW.



At the southern end of the pool, there arose a 40' high waterfall made of huge granite boulders. It stood alone and open to the elements for decades after the plunge was demolished.

 

An early interior view by photographer Arthur Canning.
COURTESY OF SCOTT NELSON - THE BRIDGEWORKS CONSERVANCY




There were "toboggan planks", springboards, and an observation gallery. Stained-glass windows and clestories ringed the pool, and rows of high windows admitted light to the interior. Colorful tiles covered the floors and walls. There were 100 steam-heated dressing rooms. When the electrically-lit natatorium was viewed from outside at night, it was said to glitter like a box of jewels.



Cleaning the "plunge", 1905. COURTESY OF SCOTT NELSON - THE BRIDGEWORKS CONSERVANCY

 



COURTESY OF SCOTT NELSON - THE BRIDGEWORKS CONSERVANCY

Natatorium interior, 1940. Note the roof trusses which were added to stabilize the structure after the 1935 earthquakes. Although unattractive, the trusses did their job. The insurmountable problem caused by the earthquakes was the collapse of the thermal vent which provided hot spring water for the pool. Attempts were made to keep the pool filled by transferring hot water from the hotel boilers. Then, they simply tried to get by with using less water, as sen in the photo above. But it was all to no avail, and the natatorium was finally closed.

The Broadwater acreage was purchased by Norman Rogers in November of 1945. He announced plans to renovate and reopen the resort, but this was never done. In July of 1946, Rogers threaded thick steel cables through the windows of the natatorium, hooked them to a bulldozer, and began pulling down the historic structure. "She's still stubborn", Rogers was quoted as saying as the great building shuddered. There were rumors that the timbers and cedar paneling were then sold for firewood.

As late as 1948, Rogers claimed he intended to renovate and reopen the resort, but what was left of it continued to decay. For decades, the stones of the waterfall stood as the only visible reminder of the opulent plunge. Now they too are gone.





Demolition of the natatorium, 1946.
MONTANA HISTORICAL SOCIETY




Aerial view of the open pool, 1953.
COURTESY OF SCOTT NELSON - THE BRIDGEWORKS CONSERVANCY

 


Recent satellite view of the Natatorium site.